ACQUERELLO
Sparkling crystal vessels for decanting wine, "white-glove" treatment and Italian food that is exquisitely prepared and presented are all elements that distinguish this intimate restaurant. Owner Giancarlo Paterlini directs the flawless service, and his appreciation and knowledge of Italian wines are impressive. Chef-owner Suzette Gresham creates riffs on classic dishes to compose her lusty but refined menu.
Cuisine: Modern Italian
Specialties: House-made pasta with foie gras and black truffles; Parmesan budino with warm asparagus and pea shoots
Seats: 50
Prices: $27-$31
Noise: 
Parking: Lot across street
Vitals: 1722 Sacramento St. (near Polk), San Francisco; (415) 567-5432. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

ALBONA
To discover the interesting specialties from Istria, diners must first discover Albona, the only Italian restaurant in the Bay Area that serves food from this little-known area near Trieste. The flavors are strongly influenced by Croatia, Austria and Yugoslavia, and owner Bruno Viscovi brings the culture to life with stories from his homeland. Each night you'll find him in the restaurant greeting customers and warming them up to the menu. The simple interior features mahogany woodwork, beveled mirrors on the walls and fresh flowers on every table.
Cuisine: Italian (Istrian)
Specialties: Ravioli with sage butter sauce; gnocchi with steak sauce; roasted pork loin stuffed with sauerkraut; braised rabbit with juniper berries and honey; strudel
Seats: 45
Prices: $12.50-$18.25
Noise: 
Parking: Free valet
Vitals: 545 Francisco St. (between Mason and Taylor), San Francisco; (415) 441-1040. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

ALMA
Johnny Alamilla, formerly of Che, has created the first Nuevo Latino restaurant in the Bay Area. With a stellar background -- he spent years at Postrio, Boulevard and Farallon -- he has turned to his heritage to inspire his new brand of cooking. He uses unfamiliar ingredients in many of his dishes: bay scallops with dende oil; butternut squash empanadas with guajillo chile sofrito; pan-seared sea bass with grilled tomato broth and roasted chayote. He did much of the work on the interior of the restaurant himself, creating a comfortable place that features wood floors, textured walls in jewel tones and rustic light fixtures.
Cuisine: Nuevo Latino
Specialties: Ceviches; churrasco-style pork chop with smoked chile jus
Seats: 58
Prices: $15-$17.50
Noise: 
Parking: Street (difficult)
Vitals: 1101 Valencia St. (at 22nd Street), San Francisco; (415) 401-8959. Dinner Monday-Saturday. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

AMBER INDIA
For some reason Indian restaurants have a sameness in the Bay Area, and few beyond Amber India have broken out of the mold. However Vijay Bist's restaurant in Mountain View can compete with the best in the United States. Outside it looks like a typical strip-mall eatery, but inside the room is filled with top-quality art and the alluring smell of spices. Even the serving pieces are a cut above. While the menu offers some popular standards, many dishes are unique.
Cuisine: Indian
Specialties: Butter chicken; lamb with pickles; lamb with peppercorns and green chiles; tandoori rack of lamb
Seats: 106
Prices: $10.95-$25.95
Noise: 
Parking: Free lot
Vitals: 2290 El Camino Real (near Rengstorff), Mountain View; (650) 968- 7511. Lunch and dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 
 

ANTICA TRATTORIA
Few neighborhood Italian restaurants have come along in the past year or so to compete with Antica. The interior features large windows overlooking Polk Street and lots of wood accents that give the room an upscale look. The reasonably priced food is also a cut above most restaurants in this price category, thanks to the cooking of chef-owner Ruggero Gadaldi. His menu is a mix of familiar and unique dishes, designed to please a wide-ranging crowd.
Cuisine: Italian
Specialties: Gnocchi; grilled lamb chops with porcini mushrooms; grilled pork tenderloin with Gorgonzola; coppa Antica (pastry cream with whipped cream and crisp meringue)
Seats: 50
Prices: $9.75-$16.50
Noise: 
Parking: Valet $10, at old Alhambra Theater (Gorilla Sports)
Vitals: 2400 Polk St. (at Union), San Francisco; (415) 928-5797. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

AQUA
Although chef Michael Mina has gone on to create other concepts in San Francisco, Southern California and Las Vegas, this elegant seafood restaurant remains his home base. For more than 10 years Aqua has served some of the best, most creative seafood in the United States. When you add the impressive flower arrangements that fill the dramatic contemporary space it makes for one of the best fine-dining experiences in the city. However, even though the restaurant has removed a few tables, the dining room is still noisy and will put off anyone wanting an intimate dining experience.
Cuisine: Contemporary seafood
Specialties: Savory black-mussel souffle; lobster pot pie; grilled tuna layered with foie gras in Pinot Noir sauce; root beer float
Seats: 120
Prices: $31-$39
Noise: 
Parking: Valet $8 (dinner only)
Vitals: 252 California St. (between Battery and Front), San Francisco; (415) 956-9662. Lunch weekdays, dinner Monday-Saturday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 
 

AsiaSF
This South of Market nightclub has it all: great food, sexy surroundings and live entertainment. The waiters double as performers, so you can forgive them if they're a little tardy in getting your tuna burger; they may be up on the long red vinyl bar dancing and lip-synching popular songs. They're "gender illusionists," who dress their moods, which may change from night to night. Chef Matthew Metcalf's fusion dishes, served in appetizer portions, continue to shine, but prices keep rising.
Cuisine: East-West
Specialties: Ahi burgers; grilled shrimp and herb salad; duck quesadillas; orange lamb; a trio of miniature ice cream cones
Seats: 90
Prices: $9.95-$18.50
Noise: 
Parking: Street (not too difficult)
Vitals: 201 Ninth St. (at Howard), San Francisco; (415) 255-2742. Dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

AZIZA
Brothers Khalid and Mourad Lahlou, who created the romantic Kasbah in San Rafael, are back. After several long delays, they've opened this Moroccan restaurant in San Francisco in the space formerly occupied by Socca. The redesigned dining rooms feature inlaid tables nestled under arched cubbyholes, tile work on the walls and a decor that's as exotic as the cuisine. Khalid is a master at the front of the house and Mourad uses their mother's recipes as inspiration for his own. The five-course tasting menu is a great deal at $35.
Cuisine: Moroccan
Specialties: Cornish hen with preserved lemons, olives and saffron; rabbit tagine with paprika sauce and parsnip mash; grilled Moorish brochettes
Seats: 120
Prices: $12-$20
Noise: 
Parking: Valet $6
Vitals: 5800 Geary Blvd. (at 22nd Avenue), San Francisco; (415) 752-2222. Dinner Wednesday-Monday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

BACAR
Bacar is one of the most high-profile restaurants to open in San Francisco in the past couple of years, featuring one of the most spectacular, easy-to- use wine lists in the city. The expansive multilevel restaurant features an open kitchen, a dramatic wine wall and a downstairs wine salon that looks like a living room. The modern American menu by chef-owner Arnold Wong offers an interesting mix of French and Italian flavors, with a touch of Asia thrown in.
Cuisine: Modern American
Specialties: Duck and foie gras sausage; wok-seared mussels; pan-roasted monkfish with braised endive; whole wok-roasted lobster
Seats: 245, including wine bar downstairs
Noise: 
Prices: $24-$38
Parking: Valet $9 Monday-Saturday nights
Vitals: 448 Brannan St. (between Third and Fourth streets), San Francisco; (415) 904-4100. Lunch weekdays; dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

BAY WOLF
Bay Wolf is a classic that has been pleasing Bay Area diners since 1975. Through the years Michael Wild has always been overseeing the kitchen, leading a succession of chefs to discover the wonders of duck. Now he's joined by veterans Nathan Peterson and Louis LeGassic, who are still cooking Mediterranean classics. An old house has been transformed into several intimate, peaceful dining rooms that have a Craftsman look. The deck in front is an ideal place to eat on sunny days and warm evenings.
Cuisine: California (Mediterranean)
Specialties: Anything with duck: creamy duck liver flan with green peppercorns; cassoulet with braised duck legs
Seats: 110, including outdoor seating
Prices: $15.75-$25
Noise: 
Parking: Street (sometimes difficult)
Vitals: 3853 Piedmont Ave. (near 40th and W. MacArthur), Oakland; (510) 655- 6004. Lunch weekdays; dinner daily. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

BETELNUT
Alexander Ong, who was a Chronicle rising star chef a few years ago, recently took over the kitchen of this Pan Asian restaurant in the Marina. Popular with the young crowd, the restaurant has an interior that evokes the back streets of Shanghai. Bamboo fans wave gently over the bar, which opens out onto Union Street, and the open kitchen adds life to the middle of the space. A back dining room offers more privacy. The menu features stylized dishes from all over Asia.
Cuisine: Pan Asian
Specialties: Wok-tossed anchovies with peanuts and chiles; salt and pepper prawns; Cecilia's minced chicken in lettuce cups; smoked sea bass; green papaya salad
Seats: 136, including bar
Prices: $12.95-$18.95
Noise: 
Parking: Validated garage across street
Vitals: 2030 Union St. (at Buchanan), San Francisco; (415) 929-8855. Lunch and dinner daily; open until midnight on weekends. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

BISTRO DON GIOVANNI
While this restaurant may be below the radar of many tourists who crowd into Napa Valley, it's a top destination for locals. Donna and Giovanni Scala not only know how to treat customers, they also know the food people like to eat. You'll find some of the best pasta in the Bay Area here. The couple are always redesigning the menu and improving the interior. There's a wonderful herb garden and a fountain overlooking a sea of vineyards, an outdoor deck with fireplace, and a cozy interior with another fireplace and a partly open kitchen behind glass to keep the noise down.
Cuisine: Italian (with Mediterranean accents)
Specialties: Beet and haricot verts salad; fritto misto; any pasta, including trenne with braised lamb and artichokes; seared salmon with buttermilk mashed potatoes; whole roasted fish; any contorni (side dishes); Bostini cream pie
Seats: 100 (plus 70 outside)
Prices: $12.95-$23.50
Noise: 
Parking: Free lot
Vitals: 4110 Highway 29, Napa; (707) 224-3300. Lunch and dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

BISTRO JEANTY
People who want the best brasserie-style French food in the Bay Area flock to this charming bistro in Yountville. Flower boxes at the windows, a patio outdoors and tight but comfortable seating give this restaurant a country appeal. Owner Philippe Jeanty headed the kitchen at Domaine Chandon for more than 20 years before he went out on his own. He's now venturing into San Francisco, getting ready to open Jeanty at Jack's in the space occupied by the legendary Jack's.
Cuisine: Country French
Specialties: Tomato soup with puff-pastry dome; pig's feet and haricot verts salad; lamb tongue salad; beef daube; coq au vin; crepe Suzette
Seats: 70
Prices: $14.50-$24.50
Noise: 
Parking: Street (easy)
Vitals: 6510 Washington St. (at Mulberry), Yountville; (707) 944-0103. Lunch and dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

BIZOU
Loretta Keller is a master at taking humble cuts of meat and turning them into mouth-watering dishes. Her beef cheeks are famous, and if you can get her braised pork shoulder or cassoulet you'll be in heaven. Her food is evocative of the bistros of France and the trattorias of Italy, with a little Spanish thrown in for rustic measure. The storefront dining room is surrounded by windows on two sides and washed in mustard-colored glazed walls, which add a cheery note during the day and a romantic glow at night.
Cuisine: Mediterranean
Specialties: Tempura-fried green beans; baked pasta; braised beef cheeks; bittersweet chocolate and coffee vacherin
Seats: 80
Prices: $19-$26.50
Noise: 
Parking: Street (difficult at lunch)
Vitals: 598 Fourth St. (at Brannan), San Francisco; (415) 543-2222. Lunch weekdays; dinner Monday-Saturday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 
 

BO'S BARBECUE
Bo McSwine has become a legend around Contra Costa County for his exceptional smoked meats from Niman Ranc h. Although the modest restaurant is only a little more than 2 years old it's gaining a Bay Area reputation. Like most barbecue places, the 36-seat dining room isn't much to look at, but with smoked meats this good it doesn't really matter. They also do a hefty takeout business.
Cuisine: American (barbecue)
Specialties: Smoked brisket and ribs
Seats: 36
Prices: $8.25-$13.95
Noise: 
Parking: Street (easy)
Vitals: 3422 Mount Diablo Blvd. (at Brown), Lafayette; (925) 283-7133. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. Beer and wine. No reservations. Credit cards accepted.
 

BOUCHON
Chef Jeff Cerciello has turned Thomas Keller's French bistro into a destination. The menu is filled with classics, and the interior looks as if it were plucked directly from the streets of Paris. The sophisticated design was created by Adam Tihany, who designed Spago Palo Alto and Le Cirque 2000 in New York. The decor includes hand-painted tile floors, mohair banquettes and a zinc bar. The place is open late, making it one of the few places in the valley for a midnight snack.
Cuisine: French bistro
Specialties: Raw seafood bar; onion soup; leg of lamb with beans; quiche; steak frite; profiteroles; pot de creme.
Seats: 72
Prices: $13.95-$21.50
Noise: 
Parking: Free lot
Vitals: 6534 Washington St., Yountville; (707) 944-8037. Lunch and dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

BOULEVARD
For five years Boulevard has won the Zagat Survey most popular restaurant award, and there are good reasons. For one, the service has gotten very good over the past few years, from the reservationists to the hosts and the bus people. Then there's Pat Kuleto's design, which weaves together industrial elements and Belle Epoque flourishes. The restaurant is divided into three sections, with an open kitchen, a bustling bar and a more peaceful back dining area that's great for conversation and views of the Bay Bridge.
Cuisine: New American
Specialties: Sauteed foie gras; crispy sweetbreads; roasted pork loin; wood- oven roast chicken; butterscotch creme brulee
Seats: 150
Prices: $25-$33
Noise: 
Parking: Valet $10 at dinner; $12 at lunch
Vitals: 1 Mission St. (at Steuart), San Francisco; (415) 543-6084. Lunch weekdays; dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

CAFE ESIN
This cafe hidden away in a generic strip mall could be anywhere, but Curtis deCarion's food continually shines. His wife, Esin, makes at least 10 desserts a day, and they continue to be some of the best in the Bay Area. While the interior has a homey atmosphere, and the couple give it a warmth that can't be duplicated at nearby glitzy corporate restaurants, it still can't hide its origins as a storefront.
Cuisine: American
Specialties: Squash risotto; pot roast with garlic mashed potatoes; Caesar salad; any dessert, particularly the black-bottomed banana creme tart and baklava
Seats: 68
Prices: $14.95-$18.95
Noise: 
Parking: Free lot
Vitals: 2416 San Ramon Valley Blvd. (near Crow Canyon Road), San Ramon; (925) 314-0974. Lunch Tuesday-Friday; dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

CAFE JACQUELINE
It takes a city like San Francisco to support a place like Cafe Jacqueline, a small, romantic restaurant in North Beach that specializes in souffles, the passion of charming chef Jacqueline Margulis. Aside from a few soups and salads, her puffy creations fill the menu. Since 1979, Margulis has whipped up hundreds of thousands of eggs in her well-worn copper bowl. The cafe's intimate interior looks like a quaint country French bistro, and you can see the chef at work behind the counter in the back. Candles on each table throw off a sensual glow, making this one of the most romantic spots in the city.
Cuisine: French (souffles)
Specialties: Gruyere cheese souffle; crab and lobster souffle; Grand Marnier souffle; chocolate souffle
Seats: 24
Prices: $25-$50 (serves 2-4)
Noise: 
Parking: Street (often difficult)
Vitals: 1454 Grant Ave. (between Union and Green), San Francisco; (415) 981- 5565. Dinner Wednesday-Sunday. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

CAFE KATI
Many talented chefs start in a storefront and then upgrade to more elaborate surroundings. Kirk Webber has stayed put for more than a decade and slowly upgraded his small storefront. It's not at all fancy, but he has developed a loyal following of neighborhood regulars and visitors who have heard about his innovative creations. He was one of the first to seriously combine Asian ingredients with American sensibilities.
Cuisine: East-West
Specialties: Dragon rolls; towering Caesar; peanut-crusted tiger prawns; miso-glazed sea bass; marinated skirt steak; butterscotch pudding
Seats: 55
Prices: $18.95-$25.95
Noise: 
Parking: Validated at Japan Center garage
Vitals: 1963 Sutter St. (between Fillmore and Webster), San Francisco; (415) 775-7313. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 
 

CAFE LA HAYE
For such a small place, Cafe La Haye has developed a big reputation since it opened in Sonoma in 1996. The service has big-city polish thanks to owner Saul Gropman, who runs the front of the house and puts together the well- priced wine list. From his tiny work area, chef-partner John McReynolds proves that an elaborate kitchen isn't necessary to turn out great food. The two- level dining area is cozy and casual, taking on a romantic charm at night.
Cuisine: California-Mediterranean
Specialties: House-smoked salmon with crisp potato pancakes; grilled pork chop with whole-grain mustard vinaigrette; seared black-pepper lavender filet of beef
Seats: 32
Prices: $12.95-$21.95
Noise: 
Parking: Street (generally easy)
Vitals: 140 E. Napa St. (in the La Haye Arts Center), Sonoma; (707) 935- 5994. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday; brunch Sunday. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

CAFE MARIMBA
If for no other reason, go to Cafe Marimba for the thin, salty chips and the house-made salsa. A margarita would also do nicely. This restaurant, owned by Louise Clement, has been serving food from Oaxaca for nine years. You'll find dozens of salsas and moles, and the food is always interesting. The casual dining room looks like a folk art museum, but the colors have become muted by time and lack of care. You really do feel as if you're in Mexico, and the service can have a manana component, too.
Cuisine: Mexican
Specialties: Moles from Oaxaca; guacamole made to order; daily fish selections with a choice of five sauces; cajeta flan
Seats: 85
Prices: $7.50-$14.25
Noise: 
Parking: Street (difficult)
Vitals: 2317 Chestnut St. (near Divisadero), San Francisco; (415) 776-1506. Lunch Wednesday-Sunday, dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

CAFE ROUGE
With cafe windows that open out onto the sidewalk and a cozy bar and oyster display, Cafe Rouge has a dash of France. However owner Marsha McBride, who cooked at Zuni Cafe for many years, is passionate about meat and serves some of the best around. She also produces an exceptional rotisserie chicken, which is also available at the takeout counter along with pates and top-quality raw meats to cook at home. This service counter is an extension of the open kitchen and is connected to a warren of specialty food shops selling cheese, produce and gourmet items.
Cuisine: Mediterranean-French
Specialties: All meats; raw oyster bar; house-made charcuterie plate; spit- roasted chicken
Seats: 90
Prices: $14-$30
Noise: 
Parking: Free lot
Vitals: 1782 Fourth St. (at Delaware), Berkeley; (510) 525-1440. Lunch and dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

CESAR
Small plates have been the rage for the past two years, but this small tapas bar next door to Chez Panisse does Spanish-inspired nibbles better than anyone else. Conceived primarily as a neighborhood drinking place, the restaurant has such good food it's attracting a crowd. Chef Maggie Pond creates only about 20 menu items, including desserts, but each one is a winner.
Cuisine: Spanish (tapas)
Specialties: Fried potatoes with herbs and sea salt; cod and potato cazuela (stew); spicy tuna and egg bocadillo (sandwich); extensive wine and liquor selection
Seats: 50
Prices: $3.75-$8.50
Noise: 
Parking: Street (fairly easy)
Vitals: 1515 Shattuck Ave. (near Cedar), Berkeley; (510) 883-0222. Dinner until midnight daily. Full bar. No reservations. Credit cards accepted.
 

 CHARLES NOB HILL
She's only 25 years old, but Melissa Perello is filling the shoes of Ron Siegel, who left Charles Nob Hill for Masa's. Perello's contemporary French food is innovative and intricate, served in quiet surroundings that speak of another era. Many who like the vibrancy of sister restaurant Aqua may find the atmosphere here a bit too tame, but those who love the elegance of established continental restaurants will feel right at home. While there's an a la carte menu, the six-course tasting menu for $70 really shows off the chef's style.
Cuisine: Contemporary French
Specialties: Foie gras tasting; meats such as lamb
Seats: 55
Prices: $26-$34
Noise: 
Parking: Valet $8
Vitals: 1250 Jones St. (at Clay), San Francisco; (415) 771-5400. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

CHEZ NOUS
Chef Laurence Jossel's departure hasn't seemed to affect the business at this small tapas bar on Fillmore. Manuel Vera has maintained the standards, reproducing many of the Mediterranean dishes perfected by Jossel and adding a few of his own. The restaurant seats only 45, and the tables are nearly on top of each other.
Cuisine: Mediterranean (small plates)
Specialties: Lamb chops with lavender sea salt; pomme frites with harissa aioli; Mediterranean fish soup; braised rabbit with mushrooms and celery root puree; canneles de Bordeaux for dessert
Seats: 45
Prices: $5-$9.50
Noise: 
Parking: Street (difficult)
Vitals: 1911 Fillmore St. (between Pine and Bush), San Francisco; (415) 441- 8044. Lunch Wednesday-Sunday; dinner Tues- day-Sunday. Beer and wine. No reservations. Credit cards accepted.
 

CHEZ PANISSE
Gourmet Magazine recently named Alice Waters' classic as the best restaurant in the United States. It's little wonder. For 30 years she's remained at the forefront of trends, teaching Americans that eating is much more about connecting to our universe than about consuming calories. She's started the careers of dozens of top chefs and almost single-handedly encouraged the development of artisan organic produce. The main restaurant downstairs still features a daily changing fixed-price menu with no choices. The upstairs cafe has a la carte pricing and serves some of the best wood- fired pizza in the Bay Area. The warm Craftsman-style interior is a perfect fit for the food.
Cuisine: California
Specialties: The restaurant has a full-time forager to find fresh ingredients. Cafe: pizza; seasonal green salads; bouillabaisse cooked in fireplace; desserts
Seats: 50 downstairs, 80 upstairs
Prices: $45-$75 fixed-price menu downstairs; main courses $16-$22 upstairs
Noise:  downstairs,  upstairs
Parking: Street (fairly easy)
Vitals: 1517 Shattuck Ave. (near Cedar), Berkeley; (510) 548-5525. Dinner downstairs and lunch and dinner upstairs Monday-Saturday. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 
 

COBALT
Guy and Rose Ferri faced quite a challenge in taking over the famed Washington Square Bar and Grill. It was a San Francisco institution, and they had very little money to make the switch. So they cleaned it up and opened the doors with a menu based on Guy's American-French repertoire. They've not only stayed open but also have been successful enough to spruce up the place even more. The deep blue and silver accents light up the room and give it a little bit of glitz.
Cuisine: American-French
Specialties: Napoleon of salmon tartare; confit of duck with lentils and huckleberry compote; porcini-dusted skate; mocha pot de creme
Seats: 86
Prices: $15-$19.50
Noise: 
Parking: Partly validated at Standard Parking; street (difficult)
Vitals: 1707 Powell St. (near Union), San Francisco; (415) 982-8123. Dinner daily; open until midnight weekends. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

COSMOPOLITAN CAFE
When it opened last year business was a little slow and it was a question whether this restaurant would survive. Now even though the location in Rincon Center has swallowed the fortunes of at least five other restaurateurs, it's a resounding success under chef Steven Levine. The interior of what used to be Etrusca, Capital Grill and others has been transformed into a sophisticated space with bars upstairs and in the center of the dining room near the glassed- in kitchen.
Cuisine: Contemporary American
Specialties: Trio of appetizers featuring the same main ingredient; goat cheese gnocchi; grilled pork chops; desserts such as vanilla malt with warm cookies
Seats: 120 (including lounge)
Prices: $16-$22.50
Noise: 
Parking: Free validated parking; $7 valet on some nights
Vitals: 121 Spear St. (between Mission and Howard), San Francisco; (415) 543-4001. Lunch weekdays; dinner Monday-Saturday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

COZMO'S CORNER GRILL
Not only did the people at Cosmopolitan Cafe turn around the Rincon Center location, but they also infused new life to a space in the Marina that had been at least four other restaurants. Cozmo's is now a bustling watering hole that walks the fine line between the drinking and dining needs of the neighborhood. The restaurant is kind of a cross between a loft and a men's club, with a mezzanine, a square central bar and dark wood appointments that give the place some class. The menu features the great ideas of Steven Levine, executed by Max Martinez, formerly of Yabbie's.
Cuisine: American
Specialties: Small plates including fried green olives and mushroom and artichoke fritto misto; calamari; cioppino; flatiron steak; trio of puddings; warm cookies with malted milk shake
Seats: 105
Prices: $9-$18
Noise: 
Parking: Validated at Lombard Street Garage
Vitals: 2001 Chestnut St. (at Fillmore), San Francisco; (415) 351-0175. Lunch and brunch Saturday-Sunday; dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

DELFINA
The food elite all around the country seem to know about Delfina. For such a small, moderately priced restaurant, it has gained a giant reputation. When you taste Craig Stoll's food, and perhaps meet his wife, Anne Stoll, you'll know why. They're a great team, and they've created food that people seem to crave. The restaurant's interior, which was expanded a couple of years ago, has an industrial-chic look that fits its Mission District location, but it's the food that always garners the raves.
Cuisine: Italian
Specialties: Grilled calamari with warm white beans; grilled sardines on crostini; roast chicken; flatiron steak; spaghetti with tomatoes and chile flakes; profiteroles with coffee ice cream
Seats: 70
Prices: $12-$18.25
Noise: 
Parking: Street (difficult)
Vitals: 3621 18th St. (between Dolores and Guerrero), San Francisco; (415) 552-4055. Dinner daily. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

DRY CREEK KITCHEN
Charlie Palmer of New York's Aureole opened this truly upscale modern mecca last year in the new Healdsburg Hotel. The large windows overlooking the street add vivid contrast to the refined appointments in the dining room and the frosted glass wall that encloses the kitchen. Mark Purdy is the chef, but Palmer can often be seen in the kitchen, too. Dishes such as spice-crusted lobster with green apple marmalade, an old-fashioned cassoulet and a house- cured salmon with scallion biscuits, salmon mousse and fresh herb salad are served in white-tablecloth splendor.
Cuisine: American
Specialties: Trio of Sonoma foie gras; black truffle- and bacon-crusted tuna; caramelized chicken breast with ricotta gnocchi
Seats: 88 (including patio)
Prices: $15-$28
Noise: 
Parking: Lot behind hotel
Vitals: 317 Healdsburg Ave. (near Mathison), Healdsburg; (707) 431-0330. Lunch and dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

EBISU
Sushi has become a craze; it's even sold in school cafeterias. But Ebisu has been serving some of the best raw fish in the city for 20 years. The surroundings are plain, but people will wait for an hour or more to sit at a counter seat or in the dining room. The prime spot is at the bar, where diners can talk to the sushi chef and find out what's best that night.
Cuisine: Japanese
Specialties: Sushi and sashimi, including live scallops; toro; seafood salad with seaweed; chicken teriyaki
Seats: 60
Prices: $9.95-$16.95
Noise: 
Parking: Street (difficult), nearby lot
Vitals: 1283 Ninth Ave. (between Lincoln and Irving), San Francisco; (415) 566-1770. Lunch and dinner daily. Beer and wine. No reservations. Credit cards accepted.
 

ELISABETH DANIEL
When you're looking for quiet, understated elegance and food to be savored, few places can top this French-inspired restaurant in the shadows of the Transamerica Pyramid. The blue and gray color scheme is designed to let the food and the crowd star. The real treat is to walk back to the gleaming glass- enclosed kitchen, where owner Daniel Patterson leads a cadre of chefs in turning out the intricate specialties on the fixed-price menu. The front of the house is aptly handled by Patterson's wife and business partner, Elisabeth Ramsey.
Cuisine: French-California
Specialties: The fixed-priced menu changes daily but may include sweetbread ravioli with black truffle sauce; consomme of shiitake and julienne vegetables; roasted squab breast with lentils and savoy cabbage
Seats: 54
Prices: Fixed-price menus $85-$105
Noise: 
Parking: Street (moderately difficult)
Vitals: 550 Washington St. (between Sansome and Montgomery), San Francisco; (415) 397-6129. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

ELLA'S
Probably the best breakfast place in the Bay Area is Ella's, where you can get anything from old-fashioned oatmeal to house-made granola, brandied French toast or chicken hash with eggs. Without a doubt Danny Wilser creates the best sticky buns on earth. A couple of years ago Wilser and partner Robert Merryman expanded to the storefront next door and began serving homey dinners. The two dining rooms have an airy look with large windows that overlook the street.
Cuisine: American
Specialties: Sticky buns; pancakes; chicken pot pie; pot roast
Seats: 70
Prices: $8.95-$16
Noise: 
Parking: Lot across the street $5 with validation
Vitals: 500 Presidio Ave. (at California), San Francisco; (415) 441-5669. Breakfast and lunch daily; dinner Monday-Friday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 
 

FARALLON
This seafood restaurant owned by Mark Franz and Pat Kuleto looks like an underwater fantasy. The 1924 dome that used to cap the pool at the old Elks club remains, but the rest of the room is vibrant with jellyfish chandeliers, seductively glowing resin kelp columns, a stairway covered with thousands of blue-black "caviar" beads and a white plaster room that resembles a shell. Franz has a knack for seafood, and he never skimps on the luxury ingredients.
Cuisine: Seafood
Specialties: Raw bar; house-smoked fish
Seats: 160
Prices: $28-$34
Noise: 
Parking: Valet $12 (at dinner)
Vitals: 450 Post St. (near Powell), San Francisco; (415) 956-6969. Lunch Tuesday-Saturday; dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 
 

FIFTH FLOOR
When George Morrone took his crew to Redwood Park, there was some question as to whether a new staff could do as well. Under Laurent Gras, who came from New York, the food is different but still great, and the service is also fully realized. Gras' combinations can be startling -- striped bass with foie gras and Brussels sprouts; or mushrooms with lemongrass and tapioca -- but everything blends into a unifed whole. The interior looks like a men's club but isn't stuffy, thanks to elements such as a zebra-striped carpet.
Cuisine: French
Specialties: Lobster cappuccino; pork belly poached with truffles and roasted until crispy
Seats: 70
Prices: $29-$42
Noise: 
Parking: Valet $10
Vitals: 12 Fourth St. (at Market), San Francisco; (415) 348-1555. Dinner Monday-Saturday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

FLORIO
Few places can transport you to Paris as fast as Florio. It has the right look, and chef Rick Hackett can do an exemplary creamy chicken liver pate, steak frite or halibut meuniere. Hackett was the chef-owner of Enrico's and Tavolino, and he lends loads of expertise to the kitchen. Joseph Graham, formerly of Bizou, handles the dining room.
Cuisine: French (and Italian)
Specialties: Garden radish selection with butter and salt; steak frites with sauce bearnaise; roasted organic chicken
Seats: 55
Prices: $14-$24
Noise: 
Parking: Street (difficult)
Vitals: 1915 Fillmore St. (between Bush and Pine), San Francisco; (415) 775- 4300. Dinner daily. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

FOOK YUEN
Chef Simon Wong creates some of the best Chinese food on the Peninsula, served in simple, generic surroundings. During the day the dining room is filled with people craving dim sum, which includes dumplings not found at other places around the bay. At night there's a Cantonese menu with a heavy emphasis on seafood. Open since 1987, the restaurant has branches in Hong Kong, Singapore and Australia.
Cuisine: Chinese
Specialties: Dim sum; fresh seafood (especially spot prawns); pork with pickled plums; crispy chicken
Seats: 300
Prices: $9-$42
Noise: 
Parking: Free lot
Vitals: 195 El Camino Real (near Millbrae Avenue), Millbrae; (650) 692-8600. Dim sum and dinner daily. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

FOOTHILL CAFE
More than 10 years ago, Jerry Shaffer gave up cooking at Masa's so he could pursue his dream of opening a small cafe in Napa. Foothill Cafe has become a homey hangout for locals and savvy visitors looking for a place to dine in the Carneros District. The restaurant is in an unimpressive strip shopping center but has a pleasant decor, and the rustic American cooking is about as good as you'll find in the valley.
Cuisine: American
Specialties: Anything from the pit, including baby back ribs; oak-roasted prime rib; pan-roasted black pepper and ginger-crusted salmon; creme brulee
Seats: 50
Prices: $14-$19
Noise: 
Parking: Free lot
Vitals: 2766 Old Sonoma Road (near Foothill), Napa; (707) 252-6178. Dinner Wednesday-Sunday. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

FOREIGN CINEMA
Husband and wife John Clark and Gayle Pirie have turned the kitchen around at this unique restaurant where you can get dinner and a movie in one spot. The movies play outside on the heated patio; inside there's a sexy interior, a roaring fire and an open kitchen. There's also a separate bar so it really is a one-stop entertainment complex. Fun as it is, however, the food is still the main draw.
Cuisine: Mediterranean
Specialties: Endive salad with smoked trout; rack of lamb with Moroccan spices; chocolate pot de creme
Seats: 200
Prices: $17-$22
Noise: 
Parking: Valet $8
Vitals: 2534 Mission St. (near 21st Street), San Francisco; (415) 648-7600. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

42 DEGREES
Jim Moffat is back in the kitchen at his trendy restaurant, which features some of the most soulful combinations to be found. The crowd that's drawn to the loftlike environment with industrial garage windows in front warms to roast chestnuts, marrow bones on toast and blood sausage. The live music that once made the place so noisy is gone, and menu prices have gone down a bit since the dot-com bomb, making 42 Degrees a diners' paradise.
Cuisine: Mediterranean
Specialties: House-made charcuterie; date and celery salad; roasted marrow bones; chocolate pot de creme
Seats: 84
Prices: $17-$26
Noise: 
Parking: Free lot
Vitals: 499 Illinois St. (between 16th and Mariposa), San Francisco; (415) 777-5558. Dinner Wednesday-Saturday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

FRENCH LAUNDRY
No restaurant in the United States comes as close as the French Laundry to emulating the Michelin three-star country restaurants in France. Some critics claim that owner Thomas Keller is the best chef in the United States, and anyone who has tasted the parade of intricate combinations that emerge from his kitchen would likely agree. The restaurant accepts reservations two months in advance, and it can take hours to get through on the phone. Once you make the list and arrive for dinner, however, the elegant stone building, beautiful tables and leisurely served fixed-price menu make it worth the effort.
Cuisine: French-California
Specialties: Five-course vegetable menu; oysters and pearls (oysters and tapioca); coffee and doughnuts (fresh cinnamon-sugar doughnuts and cappuccino semifreddo)
Seats: 60
Prices: Fixed-price, $80-$105
Noise: 
Parking: Free lot and street (easy)
Vitals: 6640 Washington St. (near Creek), Yountville; (707) 944-2380. Lunch Friday-Sunday; dinner daily. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

FRANTOIO
For a while the olive press, enclosed in glass at one end of the dining room, seemed like a gimmick at this Mill Valley restaurant. However, since Duilio Valenti took over the kitchen in 1997 the food has moved to the top of the ranks of Bay Area Italian fare. He's a master at simple pasta and meat courses. The interior is pleasant, but the look is a bit slick and corporate, which doesn't do justice to the chef's rustic style.
Cuisine: Italian
Specialties: House-made pasta and risotto
Seats: 210
Prices: $11.95-$22.95
Noise: 
Parking: Free lot
Vitals: 152 Shoreline Highway (off Highway 101), Mill Valley; (415) 289- 5777. Dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

GARY DANKO
Although it's less than three years old, Gary Danko is one of the best known restaurants in San Francisco. It helps that it won the James Beard award a couple of years ago as the best new restaurant in America. The interior has a sleek, elegant look and the service is professional without being stuffy, but Danko's cooking is the main draw. He specializes in a fixed-price menu, but diners can mix and match within categories. The wine list is one of the best in the city.
Cuisine: California-French
Specialties: Glazed oysters with leeks and salsify; roast lobster with black trumpet mushrooms; horseradish-crusted salmon with dilled cucumbers
Seats: 75
Prices: $55-$74 (depending on number of courses)
Noise: 
Parking: Valet $10
Vitals: 800 North Point St. (at Hyde), San Francisco; (415) 749-2060. Dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

GLOBE
Owners Joseph and Mary Manzare also own restaurants in the Sonoma Wine Country and Southern California, but their first venture in San Francisco is still a popular draw. The rustic American menu has an Italian spirit, and since the restaurant serves dinner until 1 a.m. on most nights it's a gathering place for some of the city's best chefs. Located in a former livery stable, the restaurant's exposed brick walls help give the cramped interior a warm, inviting look.
Cuisine: Rustic American
Specialties: Frisee salad with lardons and poached egg; steamed shellfish; oyster platter; rotisserie wood-burning oven meats; grilled T-bone with grilled onions
Seats: 50
Prices: $16-$22
Noise: 
Parking: Street (difficult during day, easy at night)
Vitals: 290 Pacific Ave. (near Battery), San Francisco; (415) 391-4132. Lunch weekdays; dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

GORDON'S
Located in a 1930s warehouse, Gordon's has a very urban and urbane atmosphere. The active bar, high ceilings, open kitchen and rotating artwork give it a very modern look. Although the frenzy has quieted down a bit since the dot-com collapse, chef-owner Gordon Drysdale continues to turn out an eclectic mix of food. The whimsical menu is divided into categories: Healthful, Comfort, Local Favorites, Luxury and International.
Cuisine: American
Specialties: Warm Brussels sprout salad; barbecued short ribs; pan-fried sand dabs; doughnut plate
Seats: 130
Prices: $8.75-$29.75
Noise: 
Parking: Street parking (easy at night)
Vitals: 500 Florida St. (at Mariposa), San Francisco; (415) 861-8900. Lunch Tuesday-Friday; dinner Tuesday-Sunday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 
 

GRASSHOPPER
Maybe it's a Bay Area thing: Take a trend (tapas) and give it a transcontinental twist -- in this case, all the way to China. This small-plate restaurant offers 20 exceptional small Asian-inspired plates, which can be paired with more than a dozen sakes. The ideas on the menu are a collaboration between owners Donald Dellis and Crossley Smith. The high-beamed ceilings, concrete floors and bamboo accents look chic, but result in a deafening noise level.
Cuisine: Chinese (small plates)
Specialties: Fried and seasoned cashews; ahi poke with green papaya salad; soy-braised pork; bok choy, fennel and spring onions
Seats: 60
Prices: $6.25-$7.75
Noise: 
Parking: Street (often difficult)
Vitals: 6317 College Ave. (at Alcatraz), Oakland; (510) 595-3557. Lunch Tuesday-Saturday; dinner Tuesday-Sunday. Beer and wine. Reservations for eight or more and credit cards accepted..
 

GREAT EASTERN
No other Chinese restaurant has as much live seafood as Great Eastern. An elaborate display of tanks along the back wall of the restaurant contains geoduck, frogs, abalone, prawns, crab and all kinds of fish. A lighted board announces what's available on a particular day, and after you order, the fish may be brought flopping to the table for your approval. The two-level dining room has the typical utilitarian look found all over Chinatown, with a sea of tables in a large, bright room. Open until 1 a.m., Great Eastern is ideal for late-night revelers. One note of caution: If you start by ordering sweet and sour pork or other ordinary fare, the waiter will probably turn the order over to a chef who prepares Americanized food.
Cuisine: Chinese (Cantonese seafood)
Specialties: Live seafood, including abalone, sea conch and octopus; goose chitterlings and duck tongue; steamed fish; fresh crab in clay pot; minced seafood with lettuce wrap
Seats: 250
Prices: $9.50-$38
Noise: 
Parking: Two-hour validation at Holiday Inn
Vitals: 649 Jackson St. (between Grant and Kearny), San Francisco; (415) 986-2500. Lunch and dinner daily. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

GREENS
Greens, more than any restaurant in the United States, showed the country that vegetarian food didn't have to be drab. In fact, even though it's closely affiliated with the San Francisco Zen Center, there's an impressive wine list. During its more than 20 years in business -- first under Debbie Madison and now under Annie Somerville -- the food has remained at the forefront of great eating. Large windows overlook the Marina at Fort Mason and offer close-up views of the Golden Gate Bridge. The interior has a warm, natural look featuring a large sculptured redwood table. The menu is a la carte for lunch and weekday dinners, with a four-course fixed-price menu on Saturdays (at $46, it's not a great value).
Cuisine: Vegetarian
Specialties: Ricotta and corn griddle cakes; crostini; tofu brochettes; pizza; spinach salad tossed with hot olive oil
Seats: 130
Prices: $14.50-18.75; $46 fixed-price on Saturday nights
Noise: 
Parking: Free lot
Vitals: Building A, Fort Mason, San Francisco; (415) 771-6222. Lunch Tuesday-Sunday; dinner Monday-Saturday. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

HAWTHORNE LANE
Chef Bridget Batson has continued to produce California-style food with Asian flair even after the departure of Anne Gingrass, who left when her marriage to owner David Gingrass ended. Like the food, the restaurant's interior is an innovative mix of rustic and refined elements. While the earthquake support beams and rough brick walls speak to the rustic, the elliptical bar and elegant table settings indicate that this is a fine-dining establishment. In addition to the regular menu, there's a less expensive bar menu.
Cuisine: California
Specialties: Fresh seafood platter; miso-glazed black cod; Chinese-style duck
Seats: 240
Prices: $19.50-$29
Noise: 
Parking: Valet $8
Vitals: 22 Hawthorne Lane (off Howard between Second and Third streets), San Francisco; (415) 777-9779. Lunch Monday-Friday; dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

HOUSE OF PRIME RIB
Joe Betz is one of the best restaurateurs in the Bay Area. He serves exceptional prime rib at great prices in immaculate surroundings. Who could ask for more? The warren of dining rooms, each with a fireplace and looking like an English men's club, is constantly updated. The prime rib is crusted in salt, roasted and carved tableside. Each dinner comes with a salad tossed at the table, creamed spinach, potato and Yorkshire pudding, making it one of the best deals in town.
Cuisine: Prime rib
Specialties: Prime rib and daily fish specials
Seats: 175
Prices: $23.75-$28.75 (including salad and side dishes)
Noise: 
Parking: Valet $6
Vitals: 1906 Van Ness Ave. (near Washington), San Francisco; (415) 885-4605. Dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

INSALATA'S
Heidi Krahling has become an expert on Mediterranean cuisine at her 5-year- old restaurant and takeout in San Anselmo. Flavors from Syria, Portugal, Morocco, Greece and the Basque country can be found on her delectable menu. While the food has ancient appeal, the interior looks like a modern brasserie, thanks to the open kitchen and large splashy paintings on the walls.
Cuisine: Mediterranean
Specialties: Mezes (Greek appetizers) and tapas; Portuguese clams with chorizo; Greek-style braised lamb; warm chocolate cake with espresso ice cream.
Seats: 159
Prices: $12.95-$21.95
Noise: 
Parking: Free lot
Vitals: 120 Sir Francis Drake Blvd. (at Barber), San Anselmo; (415) 457- 7700. Lunch and dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 
 

ISA
Luke Sung, who trained with some of the best French chefs in the city, has created a casual tapas-inspired French menu at his Marina restaurant. The business is a family affair, with his wife, Kitty, handling the front of the house. The restaurant is named for the Sungs' daughter Isabell, and the family lives above it. Isa features a stylish interior with modern touches, including brushed stainless-steel wainscoting. There's also a heated patio.
Cuisine: French tapas
Specialties: Potato-wrapped sea bass with brown butter; seared foie gras with caramelized apples; sweetbread and mushroom ragout; grapefruit granite
Seats: 60
Prices: $9-$16
Noise: 
Parking: Street (difficult); some lots nearby
Vitals: 3324 Steiner St. (between Lombard and Chestnut), San Francisco; (415) 567-9588. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

JARDINIERE
For a celebratory spot near the Opera and Symphony, no place can compete with Jardiniere, a partnership between Traci Des Jardins and Pat Kuleto. In the past couple of years Douglas Keane has taken over the day-to-day kitchen duties from Jardins, but the food remains in top form. The red brick shell and arched windows form the backdrop for a stylized interior that features a shimmering gold dome over an elliptical bar that sparkles like Champagne bubbles. Glowing posts spaced around the mezzanine's metal railing double as wine buckets, and the front door has glass cutouts in the shape of martini glasses.
Cuisine: California-French
Specialties: Seared scallops with truffled mashed potatoes; crispy duck confit salad
Seats: 140
Prices: $23-$35
Noise: 
Parking: Valet $10
Vitals: 300 Grove St. (at Franklin), San Francisco; (415) 861-5555. Dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

JIANNA
Jianna is one of those restaurants that offers much more than what's expected. The comfortable, stylish interior is awash in blue with glittering copper accents, and the American-inspired food created by Marc Valiani is often as intricate as that found at much more expensive restaurants. While prices have gone up in the past year, the menu still offers good value.
Cuisine: American
Specialties: Oysters Jianna (with caviar and carrot juice); spicy tuna with tempura shrimp; crispy sweetbread BLT; bacon-wrapped pork medallions; chocolate chip bread pudding
Seats: 71
Prices: $17.25-$23.50
Noise: 
Parking: Valet $9 at Fior d'Italia
Vitals: 1548 Stockton St. (between Union and Green), San Francisco; (415) 398-0442. Dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

KABUTO SUSHI
If you want to see where some of San Francisco's best chefs eat on their nights off, stop by Kabuto. You'll see them at the counter trying myriad strips of raw fish prepared by chef-owner Sachio Kojima. He offers both traditional and creative versions of sushi, and his product is the freshest available. And the service at this rather utilitarian Richmond District restaurant is exceptionally friendly.
Cuisine: Japanese (sushi)
Specialties: Sushi and sashimi (look for daily specials); barbecued eel; conch cooked in sake broth; yosenabe (seafood cooked in vegetable broth)
Seats: 60
Prices: $11-$18
Noise: 
Parking: Street (difficult)
Vitals: 5116 Geary Blvd. (near 15th Avenue), San Francisco; (415) 752-5652. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

KHAN TOKE THAI HOUSE
When people want a romantic retreat and don't want to spend a lot of money, Khan Toke fills the bill. Few ethnic places can match the style of this Richmond District restaurant, which features wood paneling, carved wood tables and a glass atrium filled with orchids. Diners remove their shoes when they enter and are escorted to low tables in one of several dining areas. The food isn't much different from what is found at a neighborhood restaurant, but the interior and the wine list elevate the experience.
Cuisine: Thai
Specialties: Laab (chicken, duck or beef salad); chef's favorite (prawns with pork); beef tenderloin with eggplant and yellow bean sauce; chicken in yellow curry with sweet potatoes
Seats: 90
Prices: $5.95-$11.95
Noise: 
Parking: Street (difficult)
Vitals: 5937 Geary Blvd. (near 24th Avenue), San Francisco; (415) 668-6654. Dinner daily. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 
 

KOKKARI
Although it cost more than $5 million to transform Kokkari into what is probably the most elegant Greek restaurant in the United States, it's chef Jean Alberti's food that has become the draw here. His sophisticated creations go perfectly with the interior, which features a beamed ceiling and a huge fireplace. The back dining room resembles a taverna, complete with an open kitchen and an impressive urn filled with hot sand used to make Greek coffee. There's also an impressive private dining room downstairs. A sister restaurant, Evvia, offers a similar menu and upscale look in Palo Alto.
Cuisine: Greek
Specialties: Appetizer platter with pita; octopus salad; whole grilled striped bass; lamb chops with lemon and oregano vinaigrette; moussaka
Seats: 200
Prices: $17.50-$32.95
Noise: 
Parking: $8 valet at dinner
Vitals: 200 Jackson St. (at Front), San Francisco; (415) 981-0983. Lunch weekdays; dinner Monday-Saturday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

KYO-YA
This restaurant in the Palace Hotel attracts wealthy Japanese businessmen and anyone else who doesn't mind paying the price for exquisitely prepared food. The look of the dining room and eight-seat sushi bar is upscale and serene. Along with extra fresh sashimi and sushi, the menu features one-pot dishes cooked at the table and an eight-course kaiseki dinner prepared by chef Kuni Oshikawa.
Cuisine: Japanese
Specialties: Super-fresh sashimi; kaiseki (tasting) menus
Seats: 89
Prices: $30-$60 (full dinners); $15-$25 a la carte
Noise: 
Parking: Valet $15 with validation
Vitals: 2 New Montgomery St. (in the Palace Hotel), San Francisco; (415) 546-5090. Lunch Tuesday-Friday; dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

LA FOLIE
Roland Passot served modest French food in his charming neighborhood restaurant when it started in 1988. Over the past few years the restaurant has been remodeled and Passot has refined his elegant combinations to compete with the best in the city. The refurbished interior, with a whimsical court jester theme, is an elegant backdrop for the menu, which gets more expensive each year.
Cuisine: French
Specialties: Lobster salad with fresh shaved hearts of palm and albacore tartare; parsley and garlic soup with snails and shiitake mushrooms; roasted venison loin; vegetable tasting menu; discovery menu
Seats: 79
Prices: $34.50-$42.50
Noise: 
Parking: Valet $10
Vitals: 2316 Polk St. (near Union), San Francisco; (415) 776-5577. Dinner Monday-Saturday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

L'AMIE DONIA
Donia Bijan creates the food that many Westerners crave: veal stew with pearl onions, guinea hen with spaetzle, rich onion soup. The dishes seem rustic, but Bijan has a refined style. She's always at work, head bent toward the counter, cooking and arrang- @break ing every plate that comes out of the kitchen. The interior of the restaurant, in downtown Palo Alto, is casual and inviting and includes a lively open kitchen. It can seem a bit cramped at peak hours.
Cuisine: French
Specialties: Menu changes seasonally, but look for French onion soup; steak in red wine sauce with french fries; apple tart
Seats: 69
Prices: $18-$28
Noise: 
Parking: Street (sometimes difficult); nearby lots
Vitals: 530 Bryant St. (near University), Palo Alto; (650) 323-7614. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

LALIME'S
Lalime's, open since 1985, developed a cult following through an insiders' newsletter that advertised the ever-changing fixed-price menu, but for the past few years the restaurant has flourished under a more traditional format. The Mediterranean combinations, created by chef Steve Jaramillo, change regularly but might include mussels steamed in harissa broth or chestnut- crusted venison. The two-level restaurant has a Zen-like ambience, with crowded tables that give it a warm, neighborhood atmosphere.
Cuisine: Mediterranean
Specialties: Scallops and pink grapefruit on frisee; sage- and pancetta- wrapped pork chop and rack of lamb
Seats: 70
Prices: $16.25-$22.50
Noise: 
Parking: Street (easy)
Vitals: 1329 Gilman St. (at Peralta), Berkeley; (510) 527-9838. Dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

LAPIS
You might say Thomas Ricci, who won't be 30 for several years, has learned on the job. When he opened Lapis two years ago the modern Mediterranean food didn't quite hold together. Now his creations are seamless, with enough creativity to keep things interesting. The loftlike interior of this modern restaurant features an open kitchen and a row of windows that provides a captivating close-up view of the bay.
Cuisine: Mediterranean
Specialties: Moroccan spiced crab cake with spicy carrot salad; wood-oven- baked mussels with potatoes and house-made chorizo; Tunisian rubbed tuna with white beans and preserved lemons
Seats: 142
Prices: $17-$34
Noise: 
Parking: Valet $10
Vitals: Pier 33, the Embarcadero (at Bay), San Francisco; (415) 982-0203. Lunch Tuesday-Friday; Dinner Monday-Saturday. Full @break bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

LA TAQUERIA
No one in the Mission -- or anywhere else that we've found -- does a burrito better than this 28-year-old taqueria owned by Miguel Jara. It's a bare-bones operation: Customers line up at the counter, take a number and wait to be called when their order is ready. Diners always know what they're getting: They can see the meat being grilled, the salsa being made and the tortillas being steamed. Everything is first-rate. Take it out or sit at one of the backless stools in the always-crowded dining room.
Cuisine: Mexican
Specialties: Tacos and burritos, especially carnitas (pork); fruit drinks (cantaloupe, tangerine, strawberry)
Seats: 65
Prices: $1.60-$4.55
Noise: 
Parking: Street (difficult)
Vitals: 2889 Mission St. (at 25th Street), San Francisco; (415) 285-7117. Lunch and dinner daily. Beer. No reservations or credit cards.
 
 

LE POISSON JAPONAIS
Two Spago veterans -- Naoki Uchiyama and Kenji Seki, have teamed up to produce some of the best, most creative Japanese food found in the Bay Area. For example, Uchiyama adds delicate coins of cucumber and tiny drops of miso and garlic to slices of raw octopus, redolent of lemon. His sushi is some of the freshest to be found, and the esoteric wine list adds to the experience. Seki makes everyone feel welcome, but the service can be slow at times. The tables are packed in tight, but the mood is festive.
Cuisine: Japanese
Specialties: Any raw fish dish; marinated mackerel with grapefruit vinaigrette; seared snapper with olive oil and kombu seaweed; petrale sole with plum and ponzu sauce; barbecued eel with burdock in peppercorn sauce.
Seats: 90
Prices: $7.80-$19.80
Noise: 
Parking: Lot across street
Vitals: 642 Ramona St. (near Forest), Palo Alto; (650) 330-1147. Dinner daily. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

LIBERTY CAFE
Looking kind of like a country farmhouse dining room with tongue-and-groove siding, Liberty is a shrine to American cooking. While there have been several chefs since it opened -- now it's Cynthia Shea -- owner Cathie Guntli has always kept things on track. Several years ago she created a cottage and deck in back, a great place to be on warm days (and Bernal Heights has quite a few). Guntli is an excellent pastry chef, so order anything with a crust.
Cuisine: American
Specialties: Caesar salad; chicken pot pie; banana cream pie
Seats: 52 (including deck)
Prices: $10-$16.50
Noise: 
Parking: Street (generally easy)
Vitals: 410 Cortland Ave. (at Bennington), San Francisco; (415) 695-8777. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

MANZANITA
Loretta Keller of Bizou in San Francisco and Mike and Carole Hale of Willowside Cafe in Santa Rosa joined forces to create this casual restaurant. The industrial-chic interior has a big-city look, and the room is divided by partitions that hold stacks of the namesake wood. Chef Bruce Frieseke, with the guidance of Keller, creates some exceptional rustic combinations not found anywhere else in the Wine Country.
Cuisine: Mediterranean
Specialties: Oysters with peppercorn mignonette; wood-fired mussels; pizza; citron-glazed black cod; grilled New York steak; Meyer lemon pudding cake
Seats: 55
Prices: $16.75-$23.50
Noise: 
Parking: Street (generally easy)
Vitals: 336 Healdsburg Ave. (near North), Healdsburg; (707) 433-8111. Dinner Wednesday-Sunday. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

MARTINI HOUSE
Todd Humphries, who was at Campton Place and then the Culinary Institute of America, and Pat Kuleto, who designed and owns Boulevard, Jardiniere and Farallon, have paired up for this new Napa Valley restaurant. It showcases the best of both of them: Humphries is developing his rustic style with the foraged and wild products he loves, and Kuleto has designed a handsome two- level restaurant with three fireplaces, rough-hewn wood accents and bocce ball displays in a 1920s Craftsman-style house. Michael Ouellette, formerly of Mustards, has created an amazing -- and amusing -- wine list.
Cuisine: California
Specialties: Crispy veal sweetbreads; tuna tartare with cucumber coulis and lotus root; braised veal cheeks with glazed root vegetables
Seats: 165 (including patio)
Prices: $18-$32
Noise: 
Parking: Street (generally easy)
Vitals: 1245 Spring St. (at Oak), St. Helena; (707) 963-2233. Lunch and dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

MASA'S
A new chef, Ron Siegel, and a luxurious new interior designed by Orlando Diaz-Azcuy have put this 20-year-old restaurant back on top. The rich chocolate brown walls, bronze sculptures and red-shirred chandeliers create an elegant backdrop for Siegel's creative French combinations. The service, like the other elements, is among the best in the city.
Cuisine: French
Specialties: Two fixed-price menus; skate wing with red-wine-braised short rib ravioli; veal tenderloin medallion with sweetbread
Seats: 65
Prices: $69-$109 (full meals)
Noise: 
Parking: Valet $11
Vitals: 648 Bush St. (near Stockton), San Francisco; (415) 989-7154. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

MATTERHORN
Eating fondue tends to make people relax and take it easy, and it's no different at this Swiss-inspired restaurant owned by chef Andrew Thorpe. He's created a menu of mostly cheese and meat fondues, which are brought to the table with all kinds of condiments and accompaniments. There's even a chocolate fondue for dessert. The knotty-pine paneling gives the interior the look of an Alpine chalet, and the inviting service orchestrated by Brigitte Thorpe is as warming as the cheese. There's also a list of hard-to-find Swiss wines.
Cuisine: Swiss
Specialties: Fondue (nine kinds, including chocolate for dessert); raclette with potatoes and pickles; Wiener schnitzel
Seats: 85
Prices: $14-$22.75
Noise: 
Parking: Weekend valet $7; some lots
Vitals: 2323 Van Ness Ave. (between Green and Vallejo), San Francisco; (415) 885-6116. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 
 

MERENDA
If there's a friendlier restaurant in the Bay Area, it hasn't been discovered. Owners Keith and Raney Luce make a perfect couple: She takes care of the front of the house and oversees the takeout case, and he creates the delicious food on the moderate fixed-price menu. Luce came from the East Coast to head up PlumpJack after a successful stint as sous chef at the White House, but he seems at home in the more modest surroundings of Union Street. The restaurant features blood-red walls, an intimate wine bar and floor-to-ceiling wine racks that add warmth to the dining room.
Cuisine: French-California
Specialties: House-made pappardelle with duckling confit and green olives; prosciutto-wrapped lamb with lentils and turnips; profiteroles with vanilla gelato and chocolate sauce
Seats: 30
Prices: $25-$45 (full meals)
Noise: 
Parking: Street (difficult); nearby garages
Vitals: 1809 Union St. (at Octavia), San Francisco; (415) 346-7373. Dinner Wednesday-Monday; takeout during the day. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

O CHAME
Anyone who loves Japanese food will warm to David Vardy's menu at O Chame in Berkeley. His combinations are fusion, but with gentle California twists. The udon soups are fairly traditional, but he takes some detours and pairs roast pork tenderloin with poblano chiles and portobello mushrooms, for example. Flavors are subtle and refined. The serene interior offers a stark contrast to the bustle outside on Fourth Street. It has an Asian country look that's perfectly suited to the food.
Cuisine: Japanese-California
Specialties: Udon noodles (pork tenderloin and mustard greens); grilled river eel with Belgian endive; seared tuna sashimi with braised leeks and horseradish sauce; roasted Atlantic salmon; sherry custard
Seats: 70
Prices: $9.50-$19.50
Noise: 
Parking: Free lot
Vitals: 1830 Fourth St. (near Hearst), Berkeley; (510) 841-8783. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. Beer and wine. Reservations accepted for dinner. Credit cards accepted.
 

OLIVETO
At Oliveto, you think you've walked into a traditional Italian kitchen. Chef-owner Paul Bertolli, who worked for years at Chez Panisse, makes his own pasta, cures his own meats, ages his sausage and even makes the balsamic vinegar. His food is so authentic chefs in Italy might learn a few tricks from him. One word of warning: While his food is wonderful, don't expect anything fancy. The appeal here is the purity of the food. The interior, which features an open kitchen with a grill and rotisserie, has a modern loft look and a casual, relaxed atmosphere.
Cuisine: Italian
Specialties: Fresh pasta; house-cured meats; spit-roasted or grilled meats
Seats: 100
Prices: $13.50-$26
Noise: 
Parking: Free lot
Vitals: 5655 College Ave. (at Shafter), Oakland; (510) 547-5356. Lunch and dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

ONE MARKET
Bradley Ogden has always been known for his "farm fresh" fare, but since Adrian Hoffman has come onboard the food has veered deliciously to Europe. Hoffman is a star in the making, and his food will wow diners not only for the expert blending of flavors but also for the fresh presentations. The interior of the restaurant has been warmed up a bit over the years, but it still has a kind of cold office atmosphere that doesn't match the professional service or the robust flavors of the food.
Cuisine: American
Specialties: Petrale sole souffle; house-cured and braised beef cheeks; One Market choucroute; osso buco for two; made-to-order sundae
Seats: 150
Prices: $19.75-$29.75
Noise: 
Parking: Valet $8
Vitals: 1 Market (at Steuart), San Francisco; (415) 777-5577. Lunch weekdays; dinner Monday-Saturday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

PANE E VINO
Chef-owner Bruno Quercini has won a loyal following for his pasta and other Northern Italian specialties. The restaurant, open for more than 10 years, has the cozy atmosphere of a trattoria, including a well-worn table in the middle that holds prosciutto and a wheel of Parmesan. You can expect waits, even if you have a reservation.
Cuisine: Italian
Specialties: Pasta, including fusilli with smoked mozzarella and eggplant; daily-changing risotto; whole roasted fish; tiramisu
Seats: 49
Prices: $10-$22
Noise: 
Parking: Valet $10 (at Balboa Cafe); street (difficult)
Vitals: 3011 Steiner St. (at Union), San Francisco; (415) 346-2111. Lunch Monday-Saturday; dinner daily. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

PARK CHOW
While other places were suffering late last year, Park Chow was doing its best business ever, which goes to show one thing: People crave inexpensive comfort food served in warm, inviting surroundings. Tony Gulisano opened Chow in Upper Market about five years ago and followed up a year later with Park Chow. Last year, when the consistency of the food began to wane, the owners brought on Laurence Jossel, the brains behind Chez Nous. Now they're poised to open more places. The menu is the same at both restaurants, but the branch near Golden Gate Park features a fireplace, beamed ceiling, heated outdoor deck upstairs and a private room that seats 25. While the food is mostly Italian, there's a nod to Asia with several noodle dishes. The all-American desserts are some of the best in the city.
Cuisine: Italian
Specialties: Bruschetta; spaghetti and meatballs; grilled chicken with lemon and rosemary; pizza; short ribs; steamed mussels; fruit crisps; pies (especially pecan and butterscotch banana)
Seats: 160
Prices: $5.95-$10.95
Noise: 
Parking: Street (difficult)
Vitals: 1240 Ninth Ave. (between Irving and Lincoln), San Francisco; (415) 665-9912. Lunch and dinner daily. Beer and wine. No reservations. Credit cards accepted. Also at 215 Church St. (near Market), San Francisco; (415) 552-2469.
 
 

PLOUF
This charming restaurant has become known for mussels cooked eight ways: with garlic and sherry, curried, or with shallots, bacon and cream, to name a few. Still, there's much more on the seafood menu, including very good fish and chips, seafood stew and steamed and roasted fish. Tucked away on Belden Place near the Financial District, Plouf looks like a charming fish house with tile floors, a tin ceiling and a corner fireplace. On warm days and evenings, large windows open onto the alley, which is filled with rows of tables.
Cuisine: Seafood
Specialties: Mussels served eight ways; banana profiteroles
Seats: 55
Prices: $15-$24
Noise: 
Parking: Street (difficult)
Vitals: 40 Belden Place (off Bush between Kearny and Montgomery), San Francisco; (415) 986-6491. Lunch weekdays; dinner Monday-Saturday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

PLUMPJACK
Roaming chef James Ormsby has ended up at PlumpJack and transformed the kitchen yet again. The move has been beneficial for both. For one, Ormsby has replaced many tired standards with signature dishes he created at Bruno's and Red Herring. There are also some exciting new items, such as pan-roasted salmon with green lentils, grilled artichokes and a vinaigrette of blood orange and Meyer lemon. The subtle taupe color scheme and the hand-forged appointments, including the wine racks, give this clubby spot a destination appeal. The wine list is interesting, with some of the best prices in the city.
Cuisine: California-Mediterranean
Specialties: Ahi tartare cones; steamed black mussels with orange, mint and saffron broth; red-wine-braised oxtails; devil's food cake; Meyer lemon souffle with mint creme anglaise
Seats: 75 Prices:
Noise: 
Parking: Valet $9.50
Vitals: 3127 Fillmore St. (at Greenwich), San Francisco; (415) 563-4755. Lunch weekdays; dinner daily. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

REDWOOD PARK
The most high-profile restaurant to open in 2001, this complex in the Transamerica Pyramid reunites Michael Mina and George Morrone, who cooked together when Aqua opened more than 10 years ago. More recently Mina took Aqua to four-star status, and Morrone did the same thing with Fifth Floor. For this new restaurant, owned by Charles Condy and Mina, they hired Tony Chi to do the design. He created a serene, modern environment that's just right for Morrone's modern French food. It's also one of the most expensive restaurants in the city. For smaller budgets there's the Redwood Park Grill upstairs, where the menu is more relaxed.
Cuisine: French
Specialties: Trio of soups en croute; carpaccio from land, sea and air; tuna foie gras; made-to-order ice cream
Seats: 80
Prices: $34-$39
Noise: 
Parking: Valet $10
Vitals: 600 Montgomery St. (at Clay), San Francisco; (415) 283-1000. Lunch weekdays; dinner Monday-Saturday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

RIVOLI
Owners Wendy Brucker and Roscoe Skipper are a team in life and in business: Brucker cooks, and Skipper runs the show in front. Combined, they produce one of the best restaurants in the East Bay. The low-slung dining room has an upscale ranch-house look, with a garden in back. The service is smooth, and the food is a marvel. Don't pass up the mushroom fritters or one of the braised or grilled meat dishes.
Cuisine: California
Specialties: Portobello mushroom fritters with lemon aioli; hot fudge sundae
Seats: 58
Prices: $14.95-$18.50
Noise: 
Parking: Street (generally easy)
Vitals: 1539 Solano Ave. (near Neilson), Berkeley; (510) 526-2542. Dinner daily. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

ROUX
Vincent and Tyla Jones Nattress followed their dream to open this 44-seat restaurant in downtown St. Helena. The impressive food belies the modest interior, which is a work in progress. When the couple have a few extra dollars or a few extra hours, they invest it in their restaurant, which they affectionately call their "baby." The storefront dining room features only about a dozen tables, but there's a patio for warmer evenings and a wine bar that seats seven more inside.
Cuisine: California
Specialties: Changing menu may include: smoked trout salad; foie gras spring rolls; various soups
Seats: 34
Prices: $17-$30
Noise: 
Parking: Street (generally easy)
Vitals: 1234 Main St. (near Hunt), St. Helena; (707) 963-5330. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

RUBICON
In the rush of new restaurants Rubicon is often forgotten -- until you check it out again and experience the smooth service, the incredible wine list by Larry Stone, the stellar food by Dennis Leary and the handsome loftlike environment. Brick walls and earthquake support beams play against refined wood booths and Dale Chihuly glass sculptures. The place has celebrity cachet, owned by New York restaurateur Drew Nieporent, Robert De Niro and several other celebrities. Leary features the traditional a la carte and fixed-price menu, including a vegetarian option.
Cuisine: California-French
Specialties: Tuna tartare; John Dory en papillote with walnut pesto
Seats: 125
Prices: $22-$31 (fixed-price menus $32-$85)
Noise: 
Parking: Street (difficult); valet $10 at dinner
Vitals: 558 Sacramento St. (near Montgomery), San Francisco; (415) 434-4100. Lunch weekdays; dinner Monday-Saturday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

SAM'S GRILL
What can you say about a restaurant that first opened in 1867? If it can survive 135 years it must be something special. Sam's has been in the same family since 1937 and at its current location since 1946. The interior is like stepping back in time to that men's grill look that used to dominate the dining scene. At the back is a double row of booths where the curtains can be drawn for private conversations. The menu offers classic fare that's been abandoned by many trendy restaurants. Chicken is roasted to order (it takes 45 minutes) and costs only $9.50. One bite and you know classic doesn't mean tired.
Cuisine: American
Specialties: Seafood (including petrale, sand dabs or Rex sole); sweetbreads broiled with bacon; veal porterhouse with bacon; celery Victor; French pancakes with lemon
Seats: 125
Prices: $9-$30
Noise: 
Parking: Street (difficult); public lots
Vitals: 374 Bush St. (between Montgomery and Kearny), San Francisco; (415) 421-0594. Lunch and dinner Monday-Friday. Full bar. Reservations accepted at dinner. Credit cards accepted.
 

SENT SOVI
Sent Sovi started as a modest brasserie, but with Aimee Hebert at the front of the house and David Kinch at the stove, it became a magnet for people all over the Bay Area. Kinch is known for his hearty, meticulously crafted food such as cream of turnip soup with braised young turnips and black olives, or roast grouper with caramelized fennel and roasted veal jus. The intimate dining room looks kind of like a French country inn. In addition to the a la carte menu there's a six-course fixed-price menu for $76, $120 with wine.
Cuisine: Contemporary French Specialty: Wild mushroom soup with black truffles
Seats: 36
Prices: $28-$32
Noise: 
Parking: Street (easy)
Vitals: 14583 Big Basin Way (at Fifth), Saratoga; (408) 867-3110. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

SLANTED DOOR
Charles Phan's soulful Vietnamese cooking is considered to be some of the best in the United States. Phan studied architecture before turning to the stove, so the interior of the Mission District restaurant owned by his family has a stylish look. Many recipes are interpretations of his mother's cooking -- such as putting mayonnaise into the imperial rolls -- along with a healthy mix of Vietnamese street food. The innovative wine list is designed to match the food.
Cuisine: Vietnamese
Specialties: Imperial rolls; shaking beef; grilled rack of lamb with tamarind sauce; clay-pot chicken in caramel sauce; caramelized catfish in a clay pot; devil's food cake
Seats: 90
Prices: $12.75-$26.50
Noise: 
Parking: Street (often difficult); valet $8 at night
Vitals: 584 Valencia St. (near 17th Street), San Francisco; (415) 861-8032. Lunch and dinner daily. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

SPAGO PALO ALTO
Michael French became a partner in this restaurant a few years ago and now lends a greater creative force in the kitchen. Adam Tihany's interior design adds a dash of whimsy, incorporating brightly colored ceiling beams and walls for a lively ambience. A large terrace connects the main restaurant to a separate bar and private dining room, making the place seem like a culinary compound.
Cuisine: California
Specialties: Steak tartare; Wiener schnitzel; smoked salmon pizza with lemon creme fraiche
Seats: 130
Prices: $18-$29
Noise: 
Parking: Valet $4.50 at night, $3.50 day
Vitals: 265 Lytton Ave. (near Ramona), Palo Alto; (650) 833-1000. Lunch weekdays; dinner Monday-Saturday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 
 

SPOON
Eric Hopfinger, who made Butterfly soar, has moved to this charming neighborhood spot where the cooking is more rustic. Although the room is small and much of it is given over to the bar, the look is sleek and modern, with a banquette and a dozen tables lining one wall. The attention to detail is admirable, especially given the moderate pricing. Each table is set with a heart-shaped tin of sprouting grass, Plexiglas salt and pepper grinders and heavy flatware. The chairs are molded leather, and the drum-shaped light fixtures add to the sharp look.
Cuisine: American
Specialties: Grilled prawns wrapped in pancetta with radicchio and truffled white beans; rock-shrimp pizza; baked macaroni and cheese; double pork chop with apple-raisin compote
Seats: 53
Prices: $15-$20
Noise: 
Parking: Valet $10
Vitals: 2209 Polk St. (at Vallejo), San Francisco; (415) 268-0140. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday; brunch Saturday-Sunday. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

SWAN OYSTER DEPOT
You won't find another restaurant like Swan, partly because some people claim it really isn't a restaurant. It's a place to buy fresh fish and happens to have a 20-seat counter for a quick bite. A seat at one of those stools has become one of the most coveted perches in town. Swan opened in 1912, was bought by Sal Sancimino in 1946 and is now run by his six sons. From behind the counter they crack a lot of crab, and a few jokes, too. You'll find the conversation sweet, the crab a treat and the clam chowder the best around.
Cuisine: Seafood
Specialties: Boston clam chowder; cooked Maine lobster; cracked crab; oysters and clams on the half shell; fresh seafood to take home
Seats: 20
Prices: $6.95-$25
Noise: 
Parking: Street (sometimes difficult)
Vitals: 1517 Polk St. (near California), San Francisco; (415) 673-1101. Open 8 a.m.-5:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday. Beer and wine. No reservations or credit cards accepted.
 

TAKARA
Located in the Miyako Mall, Takara looks like dozens of other restaurants that fill Japantown. The crab and prawn tank at the door and a glimpse of sushi at the counter may give you a clue that there's something different here. The food crafted by Yuki Murayama is exceptional. The restaurant specializes in rice dishes not found anywhere else, often topped with seasonal ingredients. It also does a fine job with sashimi, sushi and tempura. Most items come with an appetizer, soup, a delicious savory custard, pickles and dessert.
Cuisine: Japanese
Specialties: Ochazuke (rice with tea); iron rice pots; sashimi; fresh prawns and crab
Seats: 80
Prices: $12.50-$21.50 (complete dinners)
Noise: 
Parking: Japan Center garage
Vitals: 22 Peace Plaza, Suite 202 (Miyako Mall at Geary and Post streets), San Francisco; (415) 921-2000. Lunch and dinner daily. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

TERRA
Hiro Sone and Lissa Doumani met while both were working at Spago in Los Angeles, fell in love and then moved back to St. Helena to open their own restaurant in 1988. They took over an impressive stone building that looks kind of like a Tuscan villa. While the food has a strong European bent, Sone incorporates his Japanese background on such items as the tataki of tuna with daikon salad, and the sake-marinated sea bass with shrimp dumplings and shiso broth. Though Doumani is a pastry chef, she takes care of the front of the house.
Cuisine: California
Specialties: Ragout of sweetbreads with prosciutto, mushrooms and white truffle oil; grilled salmon with Thai red curry; chocolate bread pudding with sun-dried cherries
Seats: 92
Prices: $18.50-$28
Noise: 
Parking: Street (easy)
Vitals: 1345 Railroad Ave., St. Helena; (707) 963-8931. Dinner Wednesday- Monday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

THEP PHANOM
Pathama Parikanont learned to cook from her mother, and those memories have become the basis of her cooking at the Thai restaurant she opened in 1986. Even though she's moved beyond those recipes, the food retains a homey quality. The restaurant, housed in a Victorian, has the atmosphere of a private dining room. The bar area is chockablock with mementos and Thai art, and the waiters have the the demeanor of a friendly next-door neighbor.
Cuisine: Thai
Specialties: Fried quail; spicy seafood salad; basil salmon; lemongrass chicken; minced chicken with garlic; Siamese twins (seafood curry steamed in banana leaves)
Seats: 49
Prices: $8.95-$11.95
Noise: 
Parking: Street (difficult)
Vitals: 400 Waller St. (at Fillmore), San Francisco; (415) 431-2526. Dinner daily. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

TI COUZ
How refreshing -- a restaurant without a chef. Instead, several cooks led by owner Sylvie Le Mer, who puts together the menu, turn out marvelous Breton crepes to capacity crowds. Le Mer was a pioneer in this part of the Mission, and since opening 10 years ago she's expanded next door. The menu includes a few salads, soups, cheese platters and an interesting selection of hard ciders, but the main event is the crepes -- both sweet and savory -- with a multitude of fillings. The interior looks as if it belongs in a French country village, and the best seats are at the counter, where you can see the chefs making the big crepes on a special hot plate. Le Mer took over the additional space several years ago and began serving seafood after 5 p.m.
Cuisine: French
Specialties: Crepes; hard cider; onion soup; cheese and charcuterie platters; seafood platters
Seats: 80
Prices: $1.95-$8.50
Noise: 
Parking: Street (difficult)
Vitals: 3108 16th St. (near Valencia), San Francisco; (415) 252-7373. Lunch and dinner daily. Full bar. No reservations. Credit cards accepted.
 

TON KIANG
Opened in 1977, Ton Kiang remains the top dim sum parlor in the city. It's so busy on weekends that it takes at least nine chefs to turn out enough dumplings to feed the hordes that wait in line for the 250 seats in the large, bright room. At night the restaurant offers a full menu with some Hakka- inspired specialties, though you can still get dim sum, which is traditionally served only during the day.
Cuisine: Chinese
Specialties: Steamed dumplings and dim sum; salt-baked chicken; clay-pot dishes; garlic-laced pea shoots; crisp-skinned duck
Seats: 250
Prices: $8-$23
Noise: 
Parking: Street (often difficult)
Vitals: 5821 Geary Blvd. (between 22nd and 23rd avenues), San Francisco; (415) 386-8530. Dim sum and dinner daily. Beer and wine. Reservations accepted for large parties. Credit cards accepted.
 

VILLAGE PUB
Of all the restaurants to open in 2001, Village Pub is probably the most exciting. While the restaurant has been around for years, it closed and then reopened in a new, chic downstairs location that has a tailored look. Chef Mark Sullivan, formerly of PlumpJack, has created an American-inspired dinner menu along with a less expensive bar menu that's also available in the dining room.
Cuisine: American
Specialties: Crispy sweetbreads with poached egg and brown butter; salt cod brandade; braised short ribs with shaved radish salad; petrale sole on the bone; sorrel roasted chicken; chocolate pot de creme
Seats: 138
Prices: $19-$32
Noise: 
Parking: Lot in back
Vitals: 2967 Woodside Road (near Whiskey Hill), Woodside; (650) 851-9888. Lunch weekdays; dinner daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

YANKEE PIER
Bradley Ogden has gone back to his roots to create a simple fish shack that serves chowder, fish and chips, raw seafood and a few more complicated preparations. Linoleum floors, bare tabletops and galvanized buckets filled with condiments and oyster crackers are featured, and Crayolas and toys for the kids are stacked in the front window. On warm days, the patio is the best place to be.
Cuisine: Seafood
Specialties: Raw bar with lobster and crab claws; fish and chips; oyster pan roast; mussels with sausage and beer; pan-fried sand dabs; lemon meringue pie
Seats: 55 (plus 45 outside)
Prices: $9.95-$16.95
Noise: 
Parking: Free lot
Vitals: 286 Magnolia Ave., Larkspur; (415) 924-7676. Lunch Wednesday-Sunday; dinner daily. Beer and wine. Reservations for six or more accepted. Credit cards accepted.
 

YANK SING
This popular dim sum parlor lost its lease on the Embarcadero and moved to a more elegant space in Rincon Center. You can get all the traditional dim sum dishes here but also something different: the "Creative Collection." Each month the chef introduces combinations that would make a traditional Chinese chef faint from shock and an innovative California chef swoon. How about avocado halves filled with curried chicken and glazed with Parmesan cheese? On any given day, diners can find 80 different items, including rolling carts of minced chicken in lettuce cups or Peking duck by the slice. In addition, the custard tarts may change Westerners' ideas about Chinese desserts.
Cuisine: Chinese
Specialties: "Creative Collection" of dim sum; barbecued pork buns; minced chicken; Peking duck; custard tarts
Seats: 350
Prices: $2.70-$7.75 (for dim sum)
Noise: 
Parking: Validated parking weekends and evenings in Rincon garage
Vitals: 101 Spear St. (between Mission and Howard), San Francisco; (415) 957-9300. Lunch daily. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted. Also at 49 Stevenson St. (between First and Second streets), San Francisco.
 

ZAX
In the early years Mark Drazek and Barbara Mulas struggled with this restaurant because of its difficult-to-find location. Even today, on certain nights you might still think it's an undiscovered gem. Yet, since it opened nine years ago, Zax has remained one of the top chef-owned restaurants in the city. The room seats fewer than 50 diners and has a sleek, sophisticated look.
Cuisine: Mediterranean
Specialties: Twice-baked goat-cheese souffle with apple, celery and fennel salad; apple galette with caramel ice cream
Seats: 45
Prices: $18.50-$21.95
Noise: 
Parking: Street (difficult)
Vitals: 2330 Taylor St. (between Columbus and Francisco), San Francisco; (415) 563-6266. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.
 

ZUNI CAFE
Even with the explosion of restaurants in the past few years, Zuni is still the place that best defines the dining dynamics of San Francisco. The food is gutsy yet refined, the place has an atmosphere that can't be mass produced and the people-watching is super. In addition, Zuni stays open until midnight on most evenings. So many of Judy Rodgers' dishes have become classics that she can't take them off the menu, which is too bad because many of the daily specials are truly memorable.
Cuisine: Mediterranean
Specialties: Oysters; chicken in wood oven; hamburger; Caesar salad; espresso granita
Seats: 120 (including bar)
Prices: $11-$26
Noise: 
Parking: Street (sometimes difficult); valet $7 at night
Vitals: 1658 Market St. (near Franklin), San Francisco; (415) 552-2522. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.